Wednesday, October 29, 2014


I returned towards the Byron shire from my Surfbodysoul New Zealand visit to an inundation of fresh east ground swell. Southeast winds ensured the Bay was super fun, and equally population dense. After two days of chaotic bliss my good mate Tom, girlfriend Alycia and I decided this short drive south was important for crowd escapism. A fickle point delicately positioned from the national park and small coastal dwelling was our surf operation hotspot.

Upon arrival I realized Tom’s fin key was inadequate in diameter to solve my futures constantly in place. Both he and Alycia happily disappeared on the trail towards the point, relegating me with a desperate treasure hunt for any replacement fin key. Luckily a gristly old seadog stumbled on my rescue and before I knew it I was gazing at a mound of whitewater stretching across the remote rocky headland. My first thoughts were ‘I hope Tom didn’t paddle my girlfriend out into that mess; she’s about to drown’. Now for female readers needing to place me close to Tony Abbott to be a branded misogynist, Alycia continues to be sliding for any grand total of 2 years, hence my trepidation through an equation involving her and double overhead waves. Sure enough Tom had indeed placed hedonistic pleasure prior to safety of others (as to be fair I would have inked) as I noticed two heads bobbing around the bumpy horizon.

The rock access jump created memories of surfing Moroccan reef slabs, where one poor judgement call renders you victim too an oceanic blender with potentially dire consequences. Anyway to chop a long story short most of us enjoyed double overhead waves to ourselves, amidst a ruggedly beautiful coastal heath and sandstone backdrop. Surfing larger waves brings us to today’s topic: Practical Surfbodysoul methods of training to tackle the oceans fury. With average swells and northerly winds summertime is the perfect time to make your strength endurance, lung capacity, and adaptability to tackle big waves. Below I have outlined three processes to help you achieve only this.

This is really a Yoga breathing technique or ‘Pranayama’. This technique boosts the elasticity and strength from the diaphragm, our major involuntary breathing muscle. This allows you to circulate and store more oxygen inside your lungs, for greater amounts of time. This is advantageous inside the inevitable event of big wave hold-downs. It also creates other many benefits for us including:

Increased mental acuity and concentration
Enhanced chance to meditate and operate within the present, extremely necessary for surfers
Increased oxygen saturation to muscles and vital organs, improving physical function and satisfaction in and out from the water
Now lets explore how you can complete the strategy:
The proper way to develop this product is to practice in relaxation posture whilst lying on the back, so lets undergo this step by step:
Commence lying in your back, allow legs relax and rotate outwards. Feel the shoulders, jaw and face soften.
To begin breathe abdominally for 5 to 6 rounds, allowing the reduced abdomen to wind down and protrude during inhalation as well as drop back to your floor during exhalation.
Then to generate the diaphragmatic breathing, hold enough muscle tone within the abdominal muscles when you inhale to prevent the reduced abdomen motionless upwards.
You senses what happens next. Because the low abdomen is flat the diaphragm must work to lift and expand the ribcage. This draws air into your lungs and inside the process expands the top of the abdomen, as opposed towards the lower in ‘Supine Abdominal Breathing’.
Gradually develop your tolerance just for this breathing exercise. For example focus on a 4 second inhale and 4 second exhale, repeat much, 3 sets. You can then build now to 10 + seconds.
Be careful using this exercise. Start small and gradually develop your tolerance.


Specificity is everything: The cornerstone of recent sports science would be to recreate the precise motor pattern you are hoping to improve and discover a way to overload it, sometimes called sports specific training. Lets examine the best way to apply this principle too big wave surfing training:
Start at one end of one's local beach. Complete a Surfbodysoul limber up sequence, then paddle past the breaking zone. To limber up further spend 5 minutes gradually paddling parallel for the beach (along it).
Now paddle at 75-100% intensity for two minutes, slide within your board with leg rope attached and swim underwater for as long while you can. Jump on your own board and repeat without rest half a dozen times. Rest for two main minutes and continue doing this cycle thrice. Now paddle to your beach, jog to your place to start and complete some gentle cool off stretches.


This is often a core strength exercise contained in my Surfbodysoul client Anthony Walsh, Fergal Smith’s and Paul Morgan’s programs. It is great to bolster the deep abdominal and spinal muscles simultaneously, providing support for the lower back in bigger surf, and increasing power for the surfing:

Start inside a 4-point kneeling position (on the hand and knees). Engage your abdominals by tucking your waist line in towards your spine.

Place your elbows directly below shoulders, tuck your toes under and raise the knees up and running into a prone hold position. Tuck your chin in, draw the shoulders outside the ears, whilst keeping your abdominals activated at 100%. Your back must be flat, avoid arching the low back.
Exhale to activate your right buttock cheek and raise your straight right leg up too hip height. It is essential how the hips are square and the fewer back remains strong and flat, not arching. Keep your waist line tucking in to your spine at 100%.

Inhale return the appropriate leg towards the floor, exhale repeat in your left leg.
Repeat 5-ten times on each leg depending on your own level of strength.

NOTE: If you feel any spine . pain through the completion of this exercise stop immediately.
Add these three training ways to your regular summer program and surf big around the next sizeable bump about the horizon. I expect seeing you within the mat, or inside water!

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